Tragedy of Calibrated Gemstone Industry in Sri Lanka.
   Geetha Gunathilake FGA , MGA

Introduction.

What is a calibrated gemstone?  A gemstone cut into a particular shape and size is known as calibrated gemstone. There are internationally recognized shapes such as Rounds, Ovals, Pear, Marquise, Square, Rectangular, Baguette etc. In the international market, sizes are measured in millimeters. Those who are involved in the industry know the sizes applicable for particular shapes. For example:
 

Shape                              Size in m.m.

Rounds            2.00, 2.50, 3.00, 3.50, 4.00, 4.50, 5.00

Ovals               4x3, 5x3, 5x4, 6x4, 7x5, 8x6, 9x7

Pear                 4x3, 5x3, 6x4, 7x5, 8x6

Marquise         4x2, 5x2.5, 6x3, 7x3.5, 8x4,

Square             2.00, 2.50, 3.00, 3.50, 4.00, 4.50, 5.00

Rectangular     4x3, 5x3, 6x4, 7x5, 8x6

Baguette          4x2, 5x2.5, 6x3, 7x3.5

History.

In 1970’s heat treatment of gemstones, especially “Geuda” treatment was introduced to Sri Lanka through Thai gem dealers. Especially Sri Lankan gem dealers also started experimenting “Geuda” treatments and gradually reduced the volume of geuda supplied to Thai market. As a result, considerable volume of small size sapphires suitable for calibration was available in the local market. The gem dealers those who realized the impact of those changes managed to establish lapidary (gem cutting factories) to produce calibrated gemstones in large quantities. In 1980’s the demand for calibrated gemstones in the international market was very high and many dealers opened their gem cutting factories in Ratnapura and Colombo. Many foreign investors were interested to enter into this industry and they opened cutting factories as joint ventures with local investors by using facilities offered by the government of Sri Lanka. As a result more employment opportunities were generated and younger generation was highly interested to get a job opportunity in this industry.

Present situation.

At present the calibrated gemstone industry has lost its lustre due to many reasons. We should identify those reasons properly to remedy the situation and get back its lost lustre. Most of the factories have come to a situation of standstill or managing with lots of financial difficulties. Not only they have lost their regular orders but also their profit margins have come down sharply due to high cost of production. We lost our regular orders as a result of new entrants into the international market of calibrated gemstones. For example, gem cutting factories in China were able to produce finished goods at very low cost compared to the cost of production in our factories. They were able to reduce their cost of production, not only because of cheap labour in China but also due to introduction of modern gem cutting machines. With the introduction of modern gem cutting machines having latest techniques, a gem cutter in China was able to produce 4 to 5 times efficiently than a gem cutter in Sri Lanka. As a result of this development the Chinese gem dealers were able to offer their goods at very low prices in the international market. The factory owners in India and Thailand realized this situation just in time and managed to introduce modern techniques to their factories too. As a result they were able to face this problem successfully. Unfortunately most of the lapidary owners in Sri Lanka didn’t take necessary precautions to this problem.
 

On the other hand we have not taken necessary steps to educate our workers to prepare the goods to meet international standards. When we consider calibration of a gemstone, it is very important to have a perfect shape and precise size because present day almost all the calibrated gemstones are used for casted jewellery. Our gem cutters are hardly consider the height of a gemstone. But all three aspects length , width & height are equally important. Another aspect we will have to consider as very important is the thickness of the girdle. It should be medium and not very thin, thin, thick or very thick. If the thickness of the girdle in a calibrated gemstone is not perfect, jewellery manufacturers are reluctant to buy those stones. Cut of a gemstone is another factor to be considered seriously. For each and every shape of a gemstone there are several cutting styles. Those cutting styles have got recommended cutting angles for the top side (Crown) and bottom side (Pavilion). Those angles are recommended after considering the physical properties of the gem variety and it helps to get the maximum lustre of the stone. Unfortunately some gem cutters apply different angles in order to get more weight, but those stones get rejected in the international market.

Conclusion.

I have discussed only some of the problems prevailing in the calibrated gemstone industry. Even now if we take necessary steps, we could develop this industry to get more benefits to the country.